We’ve been living in Tucson, Arizona, for nearly a year. We came in January to escape the winter, planning to stay for two or three months and then move somewhere else, maybe Boulder, Portland (for a second time), or Berkeley. But family matters forced us to stay in the desert. Tucson is a typical city in the arid southwest: a beautiful natural setting marred by barbarous human intervention. The city is surrounded by mountains—the Catalinas to the north, the Rincons in the east, the Tucsons in the west, and the Santa Ritas to the south. The flatter spaces in the middle, about 2,000 feet above sea level, used to be desert. Some of it still is. In 1933, the federal government established Saguaro National Monument in what is now the Rincon Mountain District of Saguaro National Park, to protect the saguaro cactus, the stately sentinels of the Sonoran Desert we all know from western movies. Decades of cattle ranching had threatened the survival of the cactus (even afer the Monument was set up, cattle were still allowed to graze on the public land and did so into the 1980s). The monument was designated a national park in 1994, and today it consists of the Rincon District, comprising 67,000 surprisingly green acres east of the city of Tucson, and the browner, drier Tucson Mountain District, made up of 24,000 acres to the west. Both parts of the park are worth visits. We’ve hiked many times in the Rincon District, enjoying the songs of the numerous bird species (I like the thrashers best), the gorgeous spring flowers, especially the blooming cacti, and the running water in the washes after winter rains. When you climb out of the desert floor and into the mountains, you are amazed at the changes in the terrain. The saguaro disappear at about 4,500 feet, replaced by pines, including the vanilla-smelling ponderosa, aspen, and oaks, among many others. A trip to Mt. Lemmon, in the Catalina Mountains, takes you from 2,000 to about 9,000 feet, and the effect in terms of ecological dynamics is the same as making a trip from the Mexican to the Canadian border. Read More